יום חמישי, 6 בנובמבר 2014

SOMETHING A SURFER CATCHES

A wave can be described as a disturbance that travels through a medium from one location to another location. A water wave is therefore, a ridge or swell on the surface of a body of water. The winds cause waves on the surface of the ocean and on lakes. The wind transfers some of its energy to the water, through friction between the air molecules and the water molecules. Waves of water do not move horizontally, they only move up and down. Surfer thus ride the wave either using a board or with their bodies. However, where the wave is surfed without a board is very common and is considered by some to be the purest form of surfing.

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